A feral cat is a totally different creature. It does not trust people and will take months if not a year or two to domesticate or trust the person with the can opener. While patience and compassion can work here, you must be aware that this is not just a shy cat. Sometimes they don’t come around and you just share space until one of you leaves the planet.

A feral cat should be left alone until it feels curious enough to come out (usually at night when you’re asleep). When it sees you approach it will run and hide - as if you are the enemy. It may even Hiss at you when it sees you. Give it space, give it time.

Every so often give it rare roast beef (or tuna, chicken, turkey - whatever stimulaties its curiosity. Here is where you start to make comprises: if the cat won’t eat it out of your hand - no matter how badly it wants it - do not give it to him.

Be sure the cat has plenty of places to hide in. Once it feels sure that it is safe it will start coming out more often. Once in a while (just to let it see what it is missing) put a piece of the roast beef (or turkey or chicken) down and step back so that the cat can get it.

No sudden moves, no loud noises. Even an older feral may start responding to a person following the above rules.

I kept a feral cat in my back room (small office). I worked there alot and just ignored her. Eventually she wanted the roast beef enough to grab a piece from my hand. Another month and she would come up to the door when I entered. Another month and she stopped running from me. Another two months and I as allowed to pet her lightly. It takes time and patience.

So be sure to know the difference between Shy (will come around withing 2 weeks or so) and Feral (plan on a long, patient journey.)

• Buy a litter box for each cat in the household, since some cats will not use a box used by another cat or may prevent other pets from using a particular box.
• Place the litter box in a quiet location that is easily accessible to your pet. If disturbed or frightened while using the box, your pet may start eliminating elsewhere. Your pet may avoid using the box if it is too far away or takes a lot of effort to reach.
• There are several types of litter available. Most cats prefer “clumping” litter over clay litter.
• Reduce litter box odor by removing solid waste daily, and, if you use clay litter, changing all the litter at least weekly.

Common reasons cats may start eliminating outside the box include:

• Urinary tract obstruction or other health problem. Call your veterinarian immediately! Your pet’s life could be in danger.
• The litter box is too small or too dirty.
• Your pet is spraying urine to mark territory or reduce anxiety.
• Something about the litterbox, litter, or your household has changed and your pet objects.

To correct inappropriate elimination, confine your pet to a bathroom or large crate with the litterbox until you can correct the cause. Many things can trigger this problem. CCHS or your veterinarian can help you pinpoint the cause and suggest appropriate corrections.

Thanks to Humane Education Committee, Champaign County Humane Society, 1911 East Main, Urbana, IL 61801 USA

When was the last time you heard someone say, “I have more time on my hands than I know what to do with?” Probably never. Practically no one feels there are enough hours in the day. To make sure the dog gets his or her due, conscientious dog owners schedule time for walking and feeding the dog, training and playing games, and possibly also participating in organized dog sports, such as tracking, flyball, agility, or obedience. But how much thought do we give to how the dog spends the rest of her day, especially those portions of it when we are absent?

In the process of domestication, we’ve taken a species that is among the most intensely social in the animal kingdom and required them to spend much of their time alone. In late 20th-century American society, social isolation is an inescapable fact of existence for our canine companions. These hours spent away from the pack are stressful under the best of circumstances, and potentially damaging given the wrong conditions. As behaviorist and educator Linda Case explains in her recent book, The Dog: Its Behavior, Nutrition, and Health, separation stress frequently manifests itself in hyperactivity, destructive behaviors, and excessive vocalization. How can we minimize the negative aspects of this social deprivation and prevent the development of behavior problems?

Regular vigorous exercise and mental stimulation, adequate socialization, and interactive play are all part of a necessary daily routine for a well-adjusted dog. Proper confinement in your absence is another crucial, and frequently overlooked, aspect of dog care. Behaviorists, dog trainers, and veterinarians report that problems often develop in owner-absent dogs who are confined improperly, particularly those left in a dog crate for excessive periods of time or outside in the owner’s yard. What types of problems arise under these conditions of confinement? How can we create an environment conducive to our dog’s well-being?

Alone in the yard, the dog acutely experiences social deprivation and will bark, dig and chew to regain access to the pack or to relieve her discomfort. Left outside, most dogs will develop a barking problem. They may bark from boredom and to communicate with the absent pack (attention-seeking barking). They may bark in response to external stimuli (excitable or alarm barking). They may bark because of physical need (for food or water) or frustration (since their access to animals or objects outside the fence is blocked), or to convey a threat (stay off my territory). Excessive barking is largely self-reinforcing and, once established, can be very difficult to ameliorate as long as the dog remains outside.

Many dogs will develop a digging habit when left unsupervised in the yard. Some breeds are more prone to digging behaviors than others (just as certain breeds are more likely to engage in alarm barking), but most dogs will eventually dig in response to a scent, to bury something, to be reunited with their pack, to conserve or disperse heat, or to entertain themselves. Digging can also be highly self-reinforcing and resistant to attempts at extinction.

Destructive chewing is another behavior problem that can develop in dogs left outside. Adult dogs chew mainly to relieve anxiety or boredom, or simply for enjoyment. Like barking and digging, chewing is a natural canine activity that we can anticipate and channel. Obviously, if we are not present to intervene (i.e., substitute “legal” chew toys for inappropriate objects and offer praise for chewing the legal items), this behavior can result in destruction of property and serious harm to the dog, such as intestinal blockages or perforation.

A host of other problems are associated with outdoor confinement. Some dogs left alone outside will engage in self-mutilation (producing lick granulomas) to relieve their anxiety or boredom. The fence itself may intensify any underlying territorial aggression in susceptible dogs. The dog left outside may be subject to cruel or thoughtless behavior on the part of humans, with long-term behavioral consequences, or may be exposed to wild or stray animals, which can transmit parasites and disease. Outside dogs can develop storm phobias and are at risk of hypothermia and heatstroke. Some dogs left alone outside will learn to jump or scale the fence, or dig under it, or break through an electric fence, in order to relieve their distress or to pursue some external stimulus. Apart from the fact that running at large is prohibited by municipal ordinance in Champaign and Urbana and many outlying communities, loose dogs are at great risk of injury.

Prevention of these problems by proper confinement indoors is far easier than modifying undesirable behavior after it has been established. Once you have taught your dog the “house rules,” she will be continually practicing her indoor living skills in your absence, rather than developing bad habits outdoors. Until she has proven herself trustworthy indoors, you’ll need to provide her with a safe place to wait out your absence, such as a crate or a dog-proofed confinement area. It is essential to provide chew toys to occupy her, such as Nylabones or one or more of the “sustained-release food devices” (sterilized hollow bones or Kong toys stuffed with peanut butter, nutritionally balanced soft treats, mashed potatoes, or cheese cubes, or a Buster Cube, Activity Ball, or Roll-a-Treat filled with kibble). Do not leave her unsupervised with rawhide bones or chips, toys with squeakers, or even a rope toy if she is likely to shred and ingest it. Just as a yard is not a substitute for regular walks and interactive play, a crate is not a substitute for teaching your dog to chew only authorized chew objects. Make sure she has a solid record of being praised for chewing on legal objects.

Once your dog has mastered house rules and enjoys free run of at least part of the house, you may want to modify the environment slightly to prevent excessive barking. Block your dog’s view of the street (close the drapes) or block off his access to rooms with front windows. Confined or free, make sure your dog receives exercise and the opportunity to eliminate before you leave. A regular schedule of activities will offset or reduce the distress your dog experiences during periods of social isolation. Provide ample mental stimulation, social interaction, and physical exercise during your leisure hours. As behaviorist and trainer Jean Donaldson, author of Culture Clash, has observed, most dogs are seriously underchallenged in their daily lives and underexposed to the outside world. Incorporate your dog as much as possible into your activities. Play games such as fetch, frisbee, hide and seek, find it, and tug (assuming your dog has been taught to take and release the tug toy on command). Take your dog to a training class to socialize him to other dogs and build his confidence.

Ironically, the very device designed to provide safe confinement indoors, the dog crate, is sometimes used, or misused, so that it creates problems rather than aiding in preventing them. Dogs confined in crates for long periods of time can develop undesirable behaviors, and excessive crating often exacerbates any underlying behavior problems. Overuse of the crate can result in a dog that is hyperexcitable outside of the crate. Conversely, some dogs that are crated too long become depressed. A preexisting problem such as aggression or timidity may intensify in response to the dog’s frustration at being crated excessively. Used properly, however, a crate serves as your dog’s den, providing security and comfort in your absence.

If you are confining your dog to a crate or a safe room until he learns the house rules, you or another family member should come home during the lunch hour if at all possible to provide social contact, fresh water, and the opportunity to eliminate. If this is not feasible, enlist the aid of a pet sitter, friend, or neighbor, at least initially. No dog should be crated throughout the day and again at night. As a rule of thumb, if you will be away for more than five or six hours at a time, your dog should be left in a confinement area (a dog-proofed room or portion of a room secured with barriers), rather than a crate. Puppies require special crating procedures. Consult the pamphlet by Nicki Meyer, Pet Owner’s Guide to the Dog Crate, for further guidelines (available from CCHS).

Finally, be prepared to exercise your dog as soon as you arrive home. Whether he has been confined in your absence or has had free run of the house, you can’t expect him to wait patiently after you get home from work while you put your feet up and read the paper. He has been coping with social deprivation all day and deserves your full attention as soon as you arrive. Of course you can’t quit your job and put your life on hold to stay home with your dog, but with planning, preventative training, and proper confinement, you can make those unavoidable periods of social isolation much less stressful for him……Mary Stuart.

Thanks to Humane Education Committee, Champaign County Humane Society, 1911 East Main, Urbana, IL 61801 USA

Disease - Feline leukemia and feline immunodeficiency virus are only two of the diseases that are passed from cat to cat and, once contracted, result in the eventual death of the pet. Outside cats are even more likely than dogs to dome into contact with rabid wild animals.

Parasites - Outdoor cats suffer from fleas, ticks, ear mites, and worms that indoor cats are not generally exposed to.

Poisoning - Poisons are found in lawn chemicals, bait left out to kill rodents, antifreeze, and other sources.

Other Animals - Fights with other cats, dogs, and wildlife often leave cats maimed or injured.

People - In our own community as well as others across the nation, cats have been the victims of burning, ritual torture and other abuses.

Cars - Cats often crawl into warm car engines in cold weather and are killed or badly injured when the unsuspecting driver starts the car. Most outdoor cats die prematurely from auto accidents. It is a myth that cats are “streetwise” about cars. No matter how alert, a cat is no match for a fast moving vehicle. Unaltered cats allowed to roam and mate account for millions of the cats who must be euthanized each year because there aren’t enough homes for them.

Becoming Lost or Trapped - Few cats reported missing are recovered by their owners. Some people who notice a cat in the area assume it can find its way home. Others assume the cat is abandoned and care for it without attempting to locate the owner. Cats may become inadvertently trapped for days as they explore a neighbor’s shed or a dumpster.

Cats can be completely happy inside if you provide them with toys, good care, and lots of love and attention. If you have a kitten, start out right by never letting him outside.Older cats often make the transition to being indoor pets easily. Some, however, will take extra time and attention. Gradually reducing the amount of time your pet is allowed outside, increasing play time with your cat, taking it out on a harness and lead, or constructing or purchasing and outdoor enclosure can help ease the transition.

Thanks to Humane Education Committee, Champaign County Humane Society, 1911 East Main, Urbana, IL 61801 USA

What is a breed rescue group?

A breed rescue group is usually a group of volunteers that work together to shelter and rehome dogs of a specific breed. Most breed rescue groups obtain homeless dogs from over crowded animal shelters, impound facilities, and owner surrenders. Most breed rescue groups keep their rescued dogs in “foster homes” rather than in a kennel environment. This way, the dog’s quality of life immediately improves upon entering the rescue and he has the opportunity to learn how to be a well-behaved house dog before he is adopted and goes to his new “forever home.”

A few things you can expect:

Many breed rescues are run entirely by volunteers. Sometimes you will not get an immediate return phone call or email about your inquiry or application because the volunteers are very busy taking care of dogs and their other responsibilities. Dealing with a breed rescue can require some patience.

Breed rescues charge more for adoptions than the average animal shelter. These small non-profit groups spend a lot of money transporting, caring for, and sometimes providing medical treatment to the dogs that they rescue. For that reason, they often ask for a substantial donation from their adopters.

A good rescue group will . . .

A good breed rescue group will tell you both the wonderful and the “challenging” characteristics of the breed. The rescue will want you to understand what it is truly like to live with this type of dog. Successful adoptions happen when expectations match up with reality! The rescue should also be forthcoming with information about the breed’s genetic predispositions for health problems.

A good breed rescue group will carefully determine which dogs are suitable for adoption and will not warehouse dogs. The responsible rescue is careful to be sure that the dogs it offers for adoption are of sound temperament.

A good breed rescue will have a thorough application and interview process. Many breed rescues include a home visit as part of the application process and will not approve your adoption until the home visit is accomplished. The rescue might also contact your veterinarian as a reference.

A good breed rescue will want to hear from you after you take your new dog home and will require that you return the dog to the rescue in the event that things do not work out.

Questions to Ask a Breed Rescue Group:

1. When and how did the dog come into rescue?
2. Does the dog have any medical conditions?
3. Is the dog current with vaccinations?
4. Is the dog spayed/neutered?
5. Is the dog on heartworm prevention?
6. If the dog has been in foster care, ask to speak to the foster guardian about the dog’s personality and how it behaves in the home. You’ll want to know . . .

• Is the dog housebroken? Crate trained?
• Is the dog good with children? Other dogs? Cats?
• Does the dog walk nicely on leash? / Has he had any training?
• Does the dog have any fears: men? thunderstorms? riding in cars? being left alone?

Want to Help Animals Stay with their Families?

Volunteer with the SAFETY NET PROGRAM!

SUNDAY DEC 2 and FRIDAY DEC 7 are our next Volunteer Trainings!

See below for times and location

Animal Care & Control of New York City’s (AC&C) innovative Safety Net Program offers guidance, services, and solutions to people who are having problems keeping their pet. The goal of the program is to help keep pets with their families and reduce the number of animals surrendered to AC&C.

WE ARE EXPANDING THE PROGRAM AND SEEK VOLUNTEERS to either help answer our phone line or be on site at the shelters to consult with people about to surrender their pets with the goal of helping them to keep their pet.

Volunteer a minimum 3 hour shift, once per week. Full training provided. Weekend, weekday, and evening shifts available.

Phone line volunteer work can take place at your home or at the AC&C Administrative Office at 11 Park Place, downtown Manhattan.

On-site shelter work will take place at Manhattan, Brooklyn, Queens, Bronx, or Staten Island shelters.

Be Part Of An Innovative Program That Reduces The Number Of Homeless Animals and Educates the Public!

*NEXT SAFETY NET TRAINING SESSIONS (choose one)

SUNDAY Dec 2, 10:30 am - 12:30 pm

or

FRIDAY DEC 7, 6 pm- 8 pm

LOCATION: AC&C Administrative Offices

11 Park Place, Suite 805 (8th Floor), downtown Manhattan, near City Hall

YOU MUST RSVP. To RSVP or with any questions, and to ask about future training dates, please contact Jenny Olsen at jenlo_213@yahoo.com.

Jenny Olsen
Safety Net Program Coordinator
jolsen@nycacc.org
jenlo_213@yahoo.com
347-301-8094 - cell
917-468-2938 - Safety Net hotline

He is your friend, your partner, your defender, your dog.
You are his life, his love, his leader.
He will be yours, faithful and true, to the last beat of his heart.
You owe it to him to be worthy of such devotion. -Unknown

Algonquin
59 West 44th St.
212-840-6800
www.algonguinhotel.com

Buckingham
101 West 57th St.
212-246-1501
www.buckingtonhotel.com

Carlyle
35 East 76th St.
212-744-1600
www.thecarlyle.com

Crowne Plaza
1605 Broadway (49th St.)
212-977-4000
www.crowneplaza.com

Four Seasons
57 East 57th St.
212-758-5700
www.fourseasons.com

Gramercy Park
2 Lexington Ave. (18th St.)
212-920-3300
www.gramercyparkhotel.com

Helmsley
221 East 42nd St.
212-490-8900
www.newyorkhelmsley.com

Hilton Times Square
234 West 42nd St.
212-840-8222
www.hilton-timessquare.com

Marriott Marquis
1535 Broadway (45th St.)
212-398-1900
www.marriottmarquis.com

Millenium Boradway
145 West 44th St.
800-622-5569
www.milleniumnewyork.com

Novotel
226 West 52nd St.
212-315-0100
www.novotelhotel.com

Omni Berkshire
15 East 52nd St.
212-888-4705
www.omnihotels.com

Parker Meridien
118 West 57th St.
212-245-5000
www.parkermeridien.com

Peninsula
700 Fith Ave. (55th St.)
212-856-2888
www.newyork.peninsula.com

Pierre
2 East 61st St.
212-828-8000
www.thepierre.com

Plaza Athenee
37 East 64th St.
212-734-9100
www.plaza-athenee.com

Regency
540 Park Ave. (61st St.)
212-759-4100
www.regencyhotel.com

Ritz Carlton
50 Central Park South
212-521-6000
www.ritzcarlton.com

Sheraton Times Square
790 Seventh Ave. (51st St.)
212-621-8500
www.sheratontimessquare.com

Shoreham
33 West 55th St.
212-247-6700
www.shorehamhotel.com

Sofitel
45 West 44th St.
212-354-8844
www.sofitel.com

Surrey
20 East 76th St.
212-288-3700
www.affinia.com

Trump International
1 Central Park West (60th St.)
212-299-1000
www.trumpintl.com

W Times Square
1567 Broadway (47th St.)
212-930-7400
www.whotels.com

Waldorf Towers
100 East 50th St.
212-355-3100
www.waldorf.com

Dog Runs: Large, fensed in areas in which dogs can excerise unleashed. These runs are designed for play, while providing good drainage, safe lighting, and health plantings.

Off Leash Areas: Dogs are permitted to be off leash from 9am to 9pm. Park Rules must be observed at all times.

Dog Runs:

Hudson River Park
Leroy St. at NE corner of Pier 40
Greenwich Village
www.hudsonriverpark.org

Hudson River Park
Pier 84 at West 44th St.
Chelsea/Midtown
www.hudsonriverpark.org

Madison Square Park
East 23rd to East 26th St. (Madison to Fifth Ave.)
Flatiron
www.madisonsquarepark.org

Peter Detmold Park
West of FDR Drive from East 49th to East 51st St.
Turtle Bay
www.nyc.gov/parks

Riverside Park (3 runs)
Riverside Drive at West 72nd, West 87th & West 105th St.
Upper West Side
www.nyc.gov/parks

Robert Moses Park
First Ave from 41st to 42nd St.
Turtle Bay/United Nations
www.nyc.gov/parks

Theodore Roosevelt Park
Central Park West at 81st St.
Upper West Side
www.nyc.gov/parks

Thomas Jefferson Park
East 112th St. at FDR Drive
East Harlem
www.nyc.gov/parks

Tompkins Square Park
First Ave to Ave. B from East 7th to East 10th St.
East Village
www.nyc.gov/parks

Washington Square Park
Fifth Ave., Waverly Place, West 4th St. between McDougal and Thompson Sts.
Greenwich Village
www.washingtonsquarepark.org

Off Leash Areas

Central Park
Midtown/Upper East & West Sides
www.centralpark.com

East River Park
Montgomery to 12th St. at FDR Drive
Lower East Side/East Village
www.nyc.gov/parks

Riverside Park
Riverside Drive at 72nd St.
Upper West Side
www.nyc.gov/parks

If you are considering declawing your cat, please read this. It will only take a moment, and it will give you valuable information to help you in your decision.

First, you should know that declawing is pretty much an American thing, it’s something people do for their own convenience without realizing what actually happens to their beloved cat. In England declawing is termed “inhumane” and “unnecessary mutilation.” I agree. In many European countries it is illegal. I applaud their attitude.

Before you make the decision to declaw your cat, there are some important facts you should know. Declawing is not like a manicure. It is serious surgery. Your cat’s claw is not a toenail. It is actually closely adhered to the bone. So closely adhered that to remove the claw, the last bone of your the cat’s claw has to be removed. Declawing is actually an amputation of the last joint of your cat’s “toes”. When you envision that, it becomes clear why declawing is not a humane act. It is a painful surgery, with a painful recovery period. And remember that during the time of recuperation from the surgery your cat would still have to use its feet to walk, jump, and scratch in its litter box regardless of the pain it is experiencing. Wheelchairs and bedpans are not an option for a cat.

No cat lover would doubt that cats–whose senses are much keener than ours–suffer pain. They may, however, hide it better. Not only are they proud, they instinctively know that they are at risk when in a weakened position, and by nature will attempt to hide it. But make no mistake. This is not a surgery to be taken lightly.

Your cat’s body is perfectly designed to give it the grace, agility and beauty that is unique to felines. Its claws are an important part of this design. Amputating the important part of their anatomy that contains the claws drastically alters the conformation of their feet. The cat is also deprived of its primary means of defense, leaving it prey to predators if it ever escapes to the outdoors.

I have also had people tell me that their cat’s personality changed after being declawed. Although, the medical community does not recognize this as potential side effect.

Okay, so now you realize that declawing is too drastic a solution, but you’re still concerned about keeping your household furnishings intact. Is there an acceptable solution? Happily, the answer is yes. A big, joyful, humane YES! Actually there are several. The following website “Cat Scratching Solutions” provides many solutions as well as and insight into the psychology of why cats scratch. You can teach your cat to use a scratching post (sisal posts are by far the best). You can trim the front claws. You can also employ aversion methods. One of the best solutions I’ve found is Soft Paws®.

Soft Paws are lightweight vinyl nail caps that you glue on the cat’s front claws. They’re great for households with small children and are extremely useful for people who are away from home all day and can’t exercise the watchfulness necessary to train a cat to use a scratching post. Soft Paws® are easy to apply and last about four to six weeks. They come in clear or colors–which are really fun. Now that’s a kitty manicure! The colored caps look spiffy on Tabby or Tom and have the added advantage of being more visible when one finally comes off. Then you simply replace it. You can find Soft Paws® on the web by clicking here or call 1-800-989-2542.

You need to remember, though, that the caps and nail trimming should only be used on indoor cats who will not be vunerable to the dangers of the outdoors.

For a list of countries in which declawing is either illegal, or considered extremely inhumane and only performed only under extreme circumstances, or for medical reasons, CLICK HERE.

Not yet convinced? Click Here for “The Truth about Declawing - Technical Facts.”

Questions or Comments? Like to add to this website? Please feel free to e-mail me.

Dr. Christianne Schelling Copyright 2006 All Rights Reserved